Somewhere north of Kagbeni, the Nepal you thought you knew disappears. The green terraces are gone. The monsoon doesn't reach here. What's left is a wind-scoured desert of red and ochre cliffs, carved by centuries of sand and silence, with cave dwellings hollowed into the rock face thousands of years ago and Tibetan prayer flags snapping on ridgelines that haven't changed since the kingdom closed its borders. This is Upper Mustang, the last forbidden kingdom, and you're about to ride a motorbike through its front door.
Over 11 days you'll cover one of the most restricted and least-visited routes in the Himalayas. From Pokhara you ride through the Kali Gandaki corridor past Jomsom and Kagbeni, then cross the permit checkpoint into Upper Mustang's restricted zone. The road climbs through dry canyons and ancient villages to Lo Manthang, a walled city at 3,840m where the king's palace still stands and Buddhist monks paint murals in the same style their predecessors used 600 years ago. The return ride takes a different route through the kingdom's eastern corridor, giving you two perspectives on a landscape that most travellers will never see.
What Makes This Tour Special
- Ride into the restricted zone of Upper Mustang, a region that was closed to all foreigners until 1992 and still requires a special permit that we arrange for you
- Reach the walled city of Lo Manthang at 3,840m, where the former king's palace, four major monasteries, and centuries of Tibetan Buddhist art survive largely unchanged
- Pass through ancient cave systems where 2,000-year-old human remains and Buddhist manuscripts have been discovered by archaeologists
- Cross landscapes that look more like Tibet or Mars than Nepal: red cliffs, eroded canyons, treeless plateaux, and fossil beds where ammonite shells (shaligrams) lie scattered on the ground
- All bikes are serviced before every departure. Your guide carries a full tool set, spare parts, and a first aid kit with oximeter for altitude monitoring
- The Luxury tier includes a backup support vehicle that follows the group through every stretch of the route
- Visit Muktinath Temple and Kagbeni on the way up, and ride back through Jomsom and the world's deepest gorge
- Spend a full day exploring Lo Manthang on foot, visiting monasteries, the royal palace, and local artisan workshops
- Private departures from 1 to 20 riders, on any date you choose
- Restricted area permit, ACAP, and TIMS all included in every package
11-Day Route Overview
Day 1 is your arrival in Kathmandu, where you'll meet your guide, get your bike assignment, and go through a full briefing on the route, road conditions, and what to expect in the restricted zone. Day 2 is a long ride to Pokhara along the Prithvi Highway. Days 3 and 4 take you through the Kali Gandaki corridor to Jomsom, Kagbeni, and up to Muktinath. From Day 5 you enter the restricted area, riding through Chele, Samar, and Syangboche, with the terrain becoming progressively drier and more dramatic. Days 6 and 7 bring you into Lo Manthang itself, with a full exploration day in the walled city. Days 8 and 9 take the return route through the eastern corridor with different views and villages. Day 10 brings you back to Pokhara, and Day 11 is your return ride to Kathmandu or transfer to the airport.
The most demanding section is the restricted zone between Kagbeni and Lo Manthang: unpaved tracks with steep switchbacks, river fords, and sections where the road is little more than a carved shelf on a cliff face. Wind is strongest between midday and 4pm in the Kali Gandaki valley, so we always schedule morning starts on those stretches. If altitude bothers you, our guide monitors oxygen levels daily. We've run this route for years and we know every section where riders need extra care.
Compare Our Three Packages
| Feature | Budget (USD 1,299) | Standard (USD 2,149) | Luxury (USD 2,499) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Meals | Bed & Breakfast | All meals (company selects restaurants) | All meals (better restaurants) + fruits, dry nuts, all drinks except alcohol |
| Accommodation | Shared room in guesthouse/lodge | Private room, attached bathroom where available | Private deluxe room, bed heater, attached bathroom where available |
| Motorbike | Standard touring bike | Better touring bike | Premium bike of your choice |
| Support Vehicle | Not included | Not included | Backup jeep included |
| Guide | Professional riding guide | Professional riding guide | Professional riding guide |
| Fuel & Tools | Included | Included | Included |
| Permits | ACAP + TIMS + Restricted Area Permit | ACAP + TIMS + Restricted Area Permit | ACAP + TIMS + Restricted Area Permit |
| SIM Card | Not included | Included | Included |
| Extras | T-shirt, cap, certificate | T-shirt, cap, certificate, farewell dinner | T-shirt, cap, certificate, farewell dinner, hot showers & WiFi covered |
| Best For | Experienced riders comfortable self-catering | Most riders — best balance of comfort and value | Riders wanting full support and premium comfort |
| Deposit (10%) | USD 130 | USD 215 | USD 250 |
About the Restricted Area Permit: Upper Mustang requires a special permit from the Nepal government that costs USD 500 per person for the first 10 days and USD 50 per additional day. This permit is included in all three package tiers. We handle the entire application process for you.
Your Tour, Our Family
In the 1960s, Hari Lal Simkhada was arranging logistics for Himalayan expeditions when Upper Mustang was still sealed shut. His son, Ganesh Prasad Simkhada, went on to hold senior positions in Nepal's tourism and mountaineering institutions. Today, Shreejan Simkhada runs The Everest Holiday with the same principle: if you're riding with us, you're family, not a booking number.
We don't farm out your tour to a subcontractor. Our guides are our people. Your bike has been checked by our mechanic. And when you're in the restricted zone with no mobile signal for hours at a stretch, knowing that your operator actually cares makes a real difference.
Questions before you book? Message Shreejan directly on WhatsApp: +977 9810351300. He'll usually reply within the hour.
Why Riders Trust Us
Upper Mustang demands experience. The walled city of Lo Manthang, the desert canyon roads, the altitude above 3,800 metres — this isn't a casual ride. We've guided dozens of groups through this restricted region and understand what it takes.
All permits handled. Upper Mustang requires a restricted area permit ($500/person for 10 days), ACAP permit, and TIMS card. We process everything in advance — you just ride.
Three generations of Himalayan expertise. Family-run since 2016, with roots in Nepal tourism stretching back to the 1960s.
Solo Travellers Welcome
You don't need a group. More than half of our riders book as solo travellers. We run private departures for a single rider all the way up to 20. You get the same guide, the same bikes, and the same restricted area permit whether you're riding alone or with nine mates. Pick your date, and we'll confirm within 24 hours.
Tour Difficulty
Moderate to Challenging. The roads in the restricted zone are rougher than Lower Mustang. Expect loose gravel, river crossings, cliff-edge tracks, and long stretches without fuel or services. The maximum altitude is 3,840m at Lo Manthang, and you'll spend several consecutive days above 3,500m. Our guide carries an oximeter and monitors your oxygen levels daily. You need solid motorbike skills, a valid licence, and comfort riding on unpaved mountain roads. Previous high-altitude riding experience is helpful but not required, as we pace the route to allow gradual acclimatisation. If you can handle a challenging ride and you're prepared for basic conditions in remote lodges, this tour will reward you with scenes you won't find anywhere else on earth.
Riding the forbidden kingdom, funding the next generation
Upper Mustang permit fees are high and our margins are not. But the eleven-day ride still puts a fixed share into the Nagarjun Learning Center, the village school in Saldum that my mother helps operate. About seventy children study there for free. The school provides two hot meals each weekday and is verified on the UN Partner Portal. The price difference between the Lower and Upper Mustang loops is not just permit money — it is also more weeks of school for the kids.
