Chhusang: The Upper Mustang Village Where the Kali Gandaki Bends
Last updated 16 October 2026.
Short answer: Chhusang is a small village at about 2,980 metres on the Kali Gandaki, the first proper village you reach inside Upper Mustang after Kagbeni and Tangbe. On our Upper Mustang Trek, 10 days you walk through it on day 2, on the way from Kagbeni to Chele, and again on the way back. It is where the river bends, the cliffs turn red and the landscape starts to look like Tibet. The trek costs USD 1,290 on Budget, USD 1,930 on Standard and USD 3,500 on Luxury per person for one to four people.
I am Shreejan. Most people remember Lo Manthang from Upper Mustang, but the first day inside the restricted area is the one that changes how you see the place, and Chhusang sits right in the middle of it. Here is what to expect there.
Where is Chhusang?
Chhusang lies beside the Kali Gandaki, north of Kagbeni, where the restricted area of Upper Mustang begins. The trail from Kagbeni passes Tangbe, with its narrow lanes and whitewashed houses, and then reaches Chhusang where the river bends. From here the route crosses the Kali Gandaki on a suspension bridge and climbs a red cliff face to Chele. A track also runs east from Chhusang towards the Muktinath side, which jeeps and mountain bikes use. You will see the same village again at the end of the trek, because the way back comes down past Chele and Chhusang to Kagbeni.
| Fact | Chhusang |
|---|---|
| Height | About 2,980 m |
| Region | Upper Mustang, inside the restricted area |
| Trek day on our 10-day route | Day 2 (Kagbeni to Chele) and day 9 (Samar to Kagbeni) |
| Walking that day | 5 to 6 hours from Kagbeni to Chele, with Chhusang about halfway |
| Next stop | Chele, about 3,055 m, at the top of the red cliff |
| Permit | Upper Mustang restricted area permit, USD 50 per person per day |
What is Chhusang like?
Like the other villages of Upper Mustang, it is a small farming settlement of flat-roofed houses, with fields watered by channels from the side streams in a valley that is otherwise almost bare. The valley walls above are cut into pillars and ledges by the wind, and high in the cliffs you can see the dark openings of man-made caves, the kind Mustang is famous for. This is the point where most people stop talking for a while. The green of Kagbeni is behind you and the colours ahead are red, ochre and grey.
There is not much to do in Chhusang itself, and that is fine. It is a place for a tea stop, a look at the river and the cliffs, and a rest before the climb. In the afternoon the famous Kali Gandaki wind gets up, so the morning is the best time to walk this stretch. Your guide will set off early from Kagbeni for that reason.
How do you get to Chhusang?
Our 10-day trek starts with a long drive from Kathmandu to Kagbeni, and on day 2 you walk north through Tangbe and Chhusang to Chele. If you would rather fly part of the way, our Upper Mustang trek via Pokhara and Jomsom, 15 days flies to Jomsom and walks to Kagbeni, then follows the same trail. As of 14 October 2026 the Beni to Jomsom road is repaired and open to vehicles again, and we check the road 48 hours before every departure. My page on flying to Jomsom or driving helps you choose.
What does the permit cost?
Chhusang is inside the restricted area, so you need the Upper Mustang restricted area permit, which is USD 50 per person per day, along with the Annapurna Conservation Area permit. The permit is checked at Kagbeni before you walk north, and you must trek with a licensed guide through an agency. Solo trekkers can now get the permit too. My Upper Mustang cost guide works through the permit for different trip lengths.
When is the best time to walk through Chhusang?
| Months | What to expect |
|---|---|
| March to May | Clear, dry and warming up. Strong wind in the afternoons |
| June to August | Upper Mustang sits in the rain shadow, so it stays fairly dry, but the road below Jomsom can be hit by landslides |
| September to November | Settled weather and clear skies. The most popular time |
| December to February | Very cold, with possible snow higher up. Few lodges stay open |
Upper Mustang is one of the few treks that works in the monsoon, which my page on the rain shadow explains.
What does the Upper Mustang trek cost?
| Budget | Standard | Luxury | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Per person, 1 to 4 people | USD 1,290 | USD 1,930 | USD 3,500 |
| Meals on the trek | Not included | All meals | All meals, fruit, nuts and soft drinks |
| Porter | None, you carry your own bag | One for every two trekkers, 10 kg each | Your own porter, up to 15 kg |
Kathmandu hotels are not included in any trek tier. Insurance must be bought at home and cover trekking and helicopter rescue up to 4,500 metres, because the trek crosses passes at about 4,290 metres. If you want to read about the next village, my Chele guide covers the top of the red cliff, and the Kagbeni guide covers the start.
Questions people ask
How high is Chhusang? About 2,980 metres, on the Kali Gandaki in Upper Mustang.
Do you stay overnight in Chhusang? Not on our 10-day trek. You pass through on day 2 on the way from Kagbeni to Chele and again on the way back.
Do I need a permit for Chhusang? Yes. It is inside the Upper Mustang restricted area, so you need the USD 50 per day restricted area permit and a licensed guide.
How long is the walk from Kagbeni to Chhusang? Roughly half of the five to six hour day from Kagbeni to Chele, depending on your pace and the wind.
Can you drive to Chhusang? A jeep track runs up the valley, and our Upper Mustang jeep trip passes through Chhusang, but on the trek you walk.
Is Chhusang worth a stop? Yes, for a tea break and the view of the cliffs and caves. It is where Upper Mustang starts to look like Tibet.
What are the terms for this trek?
Group size is 1 to 20, and solo travellers are welcome; a solo price covers your own room and your own guide. The deposit is 10 per cent and it is non-refundable, with no refund if you cancel. You can move your trip free of charge to any date within one year with at least 7 days notice. The balance is paid on arrival in Kathmandu in USD or EUR, cash or by card. Card carries 3.5 per cent and cash in Kathmandu carries none. We do not take Nepali rupees from foreign clients.
How do you plan this with us?
Message me on WhatsApp on +977 9810351300 with your dates, how many of you there are and whether you want to fly or drive to the start. I will tell you which tier and which route I would choose, and send you the exact quote.
Written by Shreejan Simkhada, CEO of The Everest Holiday, from a family of three generations of family guides. TAAN Member #1586. WhatsApp +977 9810351300.
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