Update, 26 August 2026: the Rasuwagadhi border crossing and the road leading to it were badly damaged by a flood on 26 August, and the crossing is closed. This expedition reaches Tibet through that corridor, so while it stays closed the approach would have to be rearranged. The climbing itself is unchanged. I have written the full account here. Please speak to me before making any plan around this expedition.
Everest from the north is a different mountain to Everest from the south. Approached across the Tibetan plateau, the North Col and Northeast Ridge is the route of the pioneering British expeditions of the 1920s and the line on which Mallory and Irvine disappeared in 1924. There is no Khumbu Icefall on this side; instead you drive almost to Base Camp, and the challenge becomes sustained altitude, exposure and the notorious wind of the North Ridge.
This 62-day expedition begins in Kathmandu with briefing, permits and Chinese visa formalities, then travels overland across the Kerung (Gyirong) border and onto the plateau, acclimatising at Tingri before reaching Chinese Base Camp at around 5,150 m. Yaks carry equipment up to Advanced Base Camp at 6,400 m, which becomes the hub of the climb. From there you rotate to the North Col at about 7,000 m and higher, before a summit push through Camp II and Camp III on the ridge.
After the summit you descend to ABC, clear the camps, and return overland to Kathmandu.
North side or south side?
The north offers vehicle access to Base Camp, no Icefall objective hazard, and a quieter mountain. In exchange you accept a higher, colder, more exposed summit day, and helicopter rescue is not available in Tibet — evacuation is by vehicle. We are happy to talk you through both options honestly and help you choose the right side for your experience.
Why climb with The Everest Holiday
- 1:1 climbing Sherpa ratio with summit-experienced Nepali climbers.
- Tibet logistics handled end to end — Chinese visa, permits, border crossing and plateau transport.
- Fully equipped ABC with dedicated cook team, fresh food and communications.
- Generous oxygen allocation, modern masks and regulators, stocked high camps.
- Daily mountain-specific weather forecasting to choose the summit window.
Who this expedition is for
A technically challenging, high-commitment climb for experienced mountaineers. We look for previous experience above 7,000 m, ideally an 8,000 m summit, confidence on fixed lines with jumar and descender, solid crampon technique, and excellent cold tolerance and fitness.
How we run this expedition
| How we run it | |
|---|---|
| Lead guides | IFMGA/NNMGA-certified mountain guides |
| Climbing Sherpa | One-to-one; a personal climbing Sherpa for each member |
| Oxygen | Our own supply, five to six bottles per climber as standard, more on request |
| High camps | Our own tents and camp equipment; yak-supported to Advanced Base Camp |
| Route | Fixed lines on the North Ridge, run through a CTMA-licensed Tibet ground partner |
| Weather | Dedicated forecasting; we commit on the window, never on a schedule |
| Base camp | The comfortable, road-supported base camp the north side is known for; staff fully insured |
Everest North Ridge Expedition at a glance
| Duration | About 50 to 60 days, Kathmandu to Kathmandu |
|---|---|
| Summit | Everest, 8,849 m, by the North Col and Northeast Ridge |
| Region | The Tibet (China) side, across the plateau from the Kerung border |
| Season | Spring; summit in a mid-to-late-May window |
| Guides | IFMGA/NNMGA-certified, with a one-to-one climbing Sherpa |
| Support | Our own high camps and oxygen; a CTMA-licensed ground partner in Tibet |
| Access | On request; Tibet access is granted year to year |
| Visa | Overland entry uses a Chinese group visa arranged in Kathmandu, and any existing Chinese visa in your passport is cancelled |
| Price | Quoted individually; contact us for an itemised quotation |
Best time to climb Everest
| Season | Months | What it is like | Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|
| Spring | late March to May | The Everest season; teams reach Base Camp in April and summit in a mid-to-late-May weather window | The season |
| Autumn | September to November | Occasionally attempted, colder and windier, very few teams | Rare |
| Winter | December to February | Extreme cold and wind; specialist attempts only | Not offered |
| Monsoon | June to August | Snow and cloud; the mountain is left alone | Closed |
Permits and royalty
Everest from the north is climbed on a Chinese/CTMA permit arranged through a licensed Tibet partner, which bundles the climbing royalty with compulsory services. Tibet access is granted year to year, so we sell this expedition on request. Overland entry from Nepal uses a Chinese group visa arranged in Kathmandu, and any existing Chinese visa in your passport is cancelled; we tell you this before you commit. All figures are set out in your individual quotation.
Cost and dates
Tibet expeditions are quoted individually — the figure depends on your oxygen allocation, personal Sherpa support and service level, and on the current Chinese permit and royalty rates for the season. Contact us for a detailed, itemised quotation.