Swayambhunath sits on a hill above the city, and Kathmandu Durbar Square is the old royal heart of it. Together they make the classic first day in Kathmandu, with a licensed heritage guide who explains who built what and why it matters to the people who still use it.
It is a short day, about five hours with lunch. There are 365 stone steps up to the stupa on the main approach (a road also reaches the top), and cobbled lanes in the old city.
