Bhaktapur is one of the best preserved of the three old Malla cities, and Changunarayan sits on a quiet ridge above it. Together they make a slow day of carved wood, brick squares and living craft, with a licensed guide and a private vehicle.
You walk Bhaktapur Durbar Square, the five-storey Nyatapola temple and the potters' square, then drive up to Changunarayan, one of the oldest temples in the valley, in a small Newar village.
