Dharamsala (Larkya La Phedi): The Night Before the Larkya La

Last updated 10 October 2026.

Dharamsala is the last place you sleep before the Larkya La, the 5,160 m pass at the top of the Manaslu Circuit. It is also called Larkya La Phedi, and it is not a village. It is a basic stone shelter on the open ground at 4,480 m, a short half-day above Samdo. On our Manaslu Circuit Trek, 12 days you sleep here on day 9 and cross the pass on day 10.

Short answer: Dharamsala is at 4,480 m (14,698 ft). From Samdo (3,875 m) the walk takes about 3 to 5 hours and gains about 605 m. The next morning you start before dawn and cross the Larkya La to Bhimtang (3,720 m), a day of about 8 hours and 24.7 km that drops about 1,440 m.

Dharamsala at a glance

Where does Dharamsala sit on our Manaslu treks?

It is the night before the pass on every trek that crosses the Larkya La:

• Manaslu Circuit Trek, 12 days: night of day 9, pass on day 10.
• Tsum Valley and Manaslu Circuit Trek, 19 days: night of day 15, pass on day 16. This one goes from Samagaon straight to Dharamsala in one long day, without the stop at Samdo.
• Manaslu with Nar Phu Valley Trek, 21 days: the stop is called Larkya La Phedi, on day 8, and the pass is on day 9.

Before it comes Samdo, where the rest day at Samagaon has already done most of the acclimatisation work. After it comes Bhimtang.

What is the walk from Samdo to Dharamsala like?

It is a short day on purpose. You walk along the edge of fields and past old mani walls, then cross a wooden bridge over the Budhi Gandaki River and enter a side valley. The trail passes the Athahra Syar River and then the Larke River, with prayer flags and mani walls on the way. After two small stream crossings you get your first clear view of the Larkya Glacier. The path then climbs along the Salkha Khola valley to the stone shelter at 4,480 m. You usually arrive in the early afternoon, with time to rest, eat and drink.

The vegetation has gone by now. Expect rock, moraine and a lot of sky. The day is easy on the legs and hard on the lungs, so go slowly and keep drinking.

What is the shelter at Dharamsala like?

Basic. Our itinerary describes it as a stone shelter where trekkers rest before the pass, and it is not a lodge. Hot showers may not be available above Samagaon, so do not count on one here. Wind comes down from the pass, and it is cold at night, so sleep in all your layers. Dinner is early. At this height all tiers share the best available lodge, so the tier changes your meals and porters rather than the room. Budget means no meals included and no porter. Standard means all trek meals and one porter for every two trekkers. Luxury means all meals plus fruit and nuts and a dedicated porter for each trekker.

How do we handle the altitude at Dharamsala?

You arrive here after a gradual build: the rest day at Samagaon (3,530 m), the short walk to Samdo (3,875 m), then this climb of 605 m. That sequence is the reason I do not skip Samdo. Our guides carry a pulse oximeter and check your oxygen saturation in the morning and evening. They ask how you slept, whether you have a headache and how your appetite is, and they remind you to drink 3 to 4 litres of water a day. If someone shows signs of moderate or severe altitude sickness, we go down. There is no waiting to see, and on a remote route like this the decision is made early. Buy travel insurance at home that covers helicopter evacuation up to 6,000 m. We do not recommend buying insurance in Nepal.

What happens on pass day?

You start before dawn, in the cold, with a head torch. The trail goes over moraine and down to a small lake, then follows the moraine to a point marked by two landmarks and prayer flags, and passes four frozen lakes. A final climb brings you to the pass at 5,160 m, where on a clear day you see Himlung, Cheo, Kang Guru and Annapurna II. Then the trail turns west along steep, rough bends and eases into a meadow above Bhimtang. The itinerary gives about 8 hours and 24.7 km, and the descent drops about 1,440 m in one day, so plan for a long day with rests. In October the last approach is over snow that is usually firm. Early and late in the season the snow is less predictable, and your guide decides the timing on the day. For the pass itself, read my Larkya La guide.

When is the best time to sleep at Dharamsala?

For 2027, the main windows are September to November and March to May. Autumn is the clearest and most stable, and the pass is normally open. Spring is warmer, with rhododendron lower down and a little more haze. December to February is very cold, and the Larkya La can be snowed shut, so I do not plan it for winter. June to August is monsoon, with rain, leeches and landslide risk along the Budhi Gandaki, and I would leave it alone. The month-by-month view is in my Manaslu best time guide.

What permits do you need for Dharamsala?

Manaslu is a restricted area. You need the restricted-area permit, the Manaslu Conservation Area permit, the Annapurna Conservation Area permit because the route ends at Dharapani, and a TIMS card. We arrange and include all of them. A licensed guide is compulsory and you cannot walk apart from him. Solo trekkers can book. The full explanation is in my Manaslu permits guide.

Questions people ask

How high is Dharamsala on the Manaslu Circuit? Our itineraries give 4,480 m, which is 14,698 ft.

Is Dharamsala the same as Larkya La Phedi? Yes. It is the same stop under two names, and it is also written Dharmasala.

How long is the walk from Samdo to Dharamsala? About 3 to 5 hours, climbing about 605 m, so you are there by early afternoon.

Is there a lodge at Dharamsala? No. It is a basic stone shelter, and our itinerary says so plainly.

How long does it take to cross the Larkya La from Dharamsala? The whole day to Bhimtang is about 8 hours and 24.7 km. It starts before dawn.

What if the weather is bad on pass day? The guide decides. We go when conditions allow and your body cooperates, and we do not push if the pass is unsafe.

Can I do the Manaslu Circuit solo? Yes, with a licensed guide and the permits. Solo bookings have been possible since 22 March 2026.

How are the terms for these treks?

Group size is 2 to 20, and you can also trek solo. The deposit is 10 per cent and it is non-refundable, with no refund if you cancel. You can reschedule free of charge with at least 7 days notice to any date within one year. The balance is paid on arrival in Kathmandu in USD or EUR, cash or by card. Card carries 3.5 per cent and cash in Kathmandu carries none. We do not take Nepali rupees from foreign clients.

How do you plan this with us?

Message me on WhatsApp on +977 9810351300 with your dates, how many of you there are and whether you prefer the 12-day or the longer routes. I will tell you which tier and which route I would choose, and send you the exact quote.

Written by Shreejan Simkhada, CEO of The Everest Holiday, from a family of three generations of family guides. TAAN Member #1586. WhatsApp +977 9810351300.