Kathmandu Durbar Square: History, Temples, and What the Earthquake Left Behind

Kathmandu Durbar Square: History, Temples, and What the Earthquake Left Behind

The first time I brought a foreign friend to Durbar Square after the 2015 earthquake, he stood where Kasthamandap once was and didn't speak for a long time. The wooden temple that gave Kathmandu its name had collapsed into rubble. Pigeons still circled the empty space as if expecting it to reappear.

That was 2016. Today, Kasthamandap is rising again. Skilled Newari woodcarvers are rebuilding it using traditional methods, hand-carving the same joints and brackets that held the original structure for nearly a thousand years. Walk through Durbar Square now and you'll see a place caught between grief and renewal — ancient temples standing next to empty plinths, fresh timber alongside 500-year-old stone, and the Living Goddess still watching from her window.

This guide covers everything you need to visit: what survived, what didn't, what's being rebuilt, and why Durbar Square remains one of the most important cultural sites in South Asia.

What Is Kathmandu Durbar Square?

Durbar Square (durbar means "royal palace" in Nepali) is the historical seat of the Kathmandu Valley's Malla kings, who ruled from the 12th to the 18th century. The square contains the old Royal Palace (Hanuman Dhoka), dozens of temples, courtyards, statues, and the Kumari Ghar — the residence of the Living Goddess.

It's a UNESCO World Heritage Site, listed since 1979 as part of the seven monument zones of the Kathmandu Valley. The oldest structures date back to the 3rd century, though most of what you see today was built between the 15th and 18th centuries by the Malla dynasty.

Note: there are three Durbar Squares in the Kathmandu Valley — one each in Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur. This guide covers the Kathmandu one, located in the old city centre, about a 15-minute walk south of Thamel.

A Brief History (Without the Textbook Treatment)

Kathmandu's history runs deep. The valley was a lake millions of years ago. According to Buddhist mythology, the bodhisattva Manjushri drained it by cutting a gorge at Chobar with his sword. Geologists point to a natural drainage event. Either way, the fertile lakebed became one of the most important settlements in the Himalayas.

The Licchavi period (circa 400-750 CE) established early stone monuments, some of which survive today. But the golden age came with the Malla kings. Three Malla kingdoms — Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur — competed fiercely in art, architecture, and temple building. Each kingdom's Durbar Square was a canvas for this rivalry. The result was an extraordinary concentration of Newari art and architecture packed into a few hundred square metres.

The Malla era ended in 1768 when Prithvi Narayan Shah conquered the valley and unified Nepal. The Shah dynasty used Hanuman Dhoka palace until the 1886 construction of the new Narayanhiti Palace. After that, Durbar Square became a public space — still sacred, still used for festivals, but gradually shifting from seat of power to cultural monument.

The 2015 Earthquake

On 25 April 2015 at 11:56 AM, a magnitude 7.8 earthquake struck Nepal. Its epicentre was in Gorkha district, about 80 kilometres northwest of Kathmandu. The shaking lasted less than a minute. It destroyed or badly damaged roughly a third of the structures in Durbar Square.

Kasthamandap collapsed entirely. The Trailokya Mohan Narayan temple fell. The Maju Dega temple, where locals used to sit on the wide steps and watch the square, was reduced to its plinth. Several smaller temples and shrines also fell or cracked beyond safe use.

"I'd visited Durbar Square in 2012. Coming back in 2017 and seeing those gaps — it was like visiting a friend who'd lost teeth. The smile was still there, but different. Sadder. You could feel the loss even if you couldn't name every missing building." — Karen, Vancouver, visited 2017 and 2024

The good news: many of the most important structures survived. Taleju Temple, the tallest in the square. The Kumari Ghar. The Hanuman Dhoka palace (damaged but standing). The stone Shiva-Parvati temple, whose carved figures still lean from the window above the square. Reconstruction work, funded by Nepal's government, UNESCO, and international donors, has been ongoing since 2016.

What to See in Durbar Square Today

1. Kumari Ghar (House of the Living Goddess)

This is Durbar Square's most fascinating building. Built in the 18th century, it's a three-storey Newari courtyard with some of the finest carved wooden windows in Nepal. Inside lives the Kumari — a pre-pubescent girl selected from the Newar Shakya community and worshipped as the living incarnation of the Hindu goddess Taleju.

The Kumari appears at her window overlooking the inner courtyard at irregular intervals. You're welcome to enter the courtyard and wait, but photography of the Kumari herself is forbidden. If she appears, it's considered a blessing. Most visits last 30-60 seconds before she withdraws.

The Kumari tradition is controversial. Critics argue it deprives young girls of normal childhoods. Supporters say the tradition is voluntary, the families are honoured, and former Kumaris have spoken positively about their experience. Whatever your view, it's a living tradition that connects modern Kathmandu directly to its medieval past.

2. Hanuman Dhoka Palace

The old Royal Palace complex, named for the Hanuman statue at its entrance (now covered in a thick coat of red paste from centuries of devotion), contains several courtyards, museums, and the Nasal Chowk — a ceremonial courtyard where Nepali kings were once crowned.

The palace museum houses royal thrones, weapons, and costumes. A portrait gallery traces Nepal's Shah dynasty. It's a modest collection, but the building itself, with its brick courtyards and carved wooden balconies, is the real attraction.

Earthquake damage closed several sections. Some have reopened; others remain under restoration. Check at the ticket office for current access.

3. Taleju Temple

At 36 metres, Taleju Bhawani Temple is the tallest structure in Durbar Square and one of the finest examples of pagoda architecture in Nepal. Built by King Mahendra Malla in 1564, it's dedicated to the goddess Taleju, the tutelary deity of the Malla kings.

Taleju Temple is closed to non-Hindus for all but one day of the year: the ninth day of Dashain, Nepal's biggest festival (usually in October). If your visit coincides, joining the queue of devotees climbing those steps is an unforgettable experience.

4. Kasthamandap (Under Reconstruction)

The temple that gave Kathmandu its name. Kasthamandap means "wooden pavilion," and legend says the entire structure was built from the wood of a single tree. Archaeological evidence suggests it dates to at least the 12th century, making it one of the oldest wooden structures in the world before its collapse in 2015.

Reconstruction began in 2019 using traditional Newari techniques. Skilled carpenters are hand-cutting timber joints without nails, exactly as the original builders did. When complete, it will stand again as proof of Newari woodworking skill and community determination. You can watch the work in progress from outside the construction barriers.

5. Shiva-Parvati Temple

Look up from the main square and you'll spot two carved figures leaning from a first-floor window: Shiva and his consort Parvati, painted in vivid colours, appearing to watch the daily life of the square below. The temple itself dates to the late 18th century. It survived the earthquake with minor damage and remains one of the most photographed spots in Kathmandu.

6. Kal Bhairav

A large stone relief of Bhairav, the fearsome aspect of Shiva, stands in the square wearing a garland of skulls and trampling a demon. It was once believed that anyone who told a lie before this statue would vomit blood and die. In the Malla era, legal disputes were sometimes settled here. The accused would be asked to swear their innocence before Kal Bhairav.

7. The Stone Inscriptions

Near the palace entrance, a stone inscription in 15 languages was placed by King Pratap Malla in the 17th century. It includes Sanskrit, Newari, and several European languages. Local legend says that if anyone can read all 15 languages aloud, milk will flow from the stone spout nearby. Nobody has managed it yet.

Entry Fee and Practical Information

A useful tip: if you're staying in Kathmandu for several days, ask at the ticket office about a multi-day pass. Some travellers have reported being able to get extended access, which lets you return for festivals or different lighting conditions.

How to Get There

Durbar Square is in the old city, about a 15-minute walk south of Thamel through narrow, chaotic streets lined with shops. The walk itself is half the experience. You'll pass through Indra Chowk, the bead and bangle market, and Asan Tole, one of the oldest trading squares in Nepal.

If walking isn't your style, a taxi from Thamel costs NPR 200-300. But honestly, the streets between Thamel and Durbar Square are too narrow for comfortable driving. Walking is better.

Our Kathmandu Valley Tour includes Durbar Square with a local guide who can explain the history, architecture, and ongoing reconstruction in detail that no guidebook can match.

Best Time to Visit

Early morning (7:00-9:00 AM): Locals performing morning pujas at the temples. Fewer tourists. Beautiful light on the red brick. The best time for photographs.

Late afternoon (4:00-6:00 PM): Warm golden light. Locals gathering on temple steps after work. Street food vendors appear. The square feels most alive.

During Dashain (October): The square transforms during Nepal's greatest festival. Animal sacrifices at Taleju Temple, Kumari processions through the streets, families gathering in their finest clothes. It's intense, sometimes confronting, and absolutely authentic.

During Indra Jatra (September): The Living Goddess is carried through Durbar Square on a chariot. Crowds pack the narrow streets. It's chaotic, beautiful, and one of the oldest living urban festivals in Asia.

What the Earthquake Changed (and Didn't)

Visitors who saw Durbar Square before 2015 will notice the gaps. The missing temples leave holes in what was once a tightly packed architectural landscape. Some plinths stand empty. Construction scaffolding wraps several buildings.

But the spirit of the place hasn't changed. Old men still play cards on temple steps. Vegetable sellers still spread their produce on the stone paving. Sadhus still sit cross-legged near Hanuman Dhoka, offering blessings in exchange for small donations. The Kumari still appears at her window.

"People told me not to bother with Durbar Square because of the earthquake damage. I'm so glad I ignored them. Yes, some temples are gone. But the ones that remain are incredible, and watching the rebuilding happen in real time — traditional carpenters using medieval techniques — was more interesting than any finished monument." . Yuki, Tokyo, visited November 2025

If anything, the earthquake has made Durbar Square more interesting, not less. You're witnessing a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the process of healing. The craftspeople doing the rebuilding are carrying forward skills that have been passed down for centuries. That living tradition is as valuable as the buildings themselves.

Combining Durbar Square with Other Kathmandu Sites

A full day of Kathmandu cultural sightseeing might look like this:

• Morning: Durbar Square (1.5-2 hours)
• Late morning: Walk to Swayambhunath (the Monkey Temple) via taxi , 20 minutes
• Afternoon: Pashupatinath Temple and Boudhanath Stupa (eastern Kathmandu)
• Evening: Return to Thamel for dinner

For a deeper cultural experience, our Kathmandu Pokhara Chitwan Lumbini Tour spends proper time at all the major Kathmandu sites before heading to Pokhara, the jungles of Chitwan, and the birthplace of the Buddha at Lumbini.

If your interests lean towards Buddhism, the Buddhist Circuit Tour covers Boudhanath, Swayambhunath, Lumbini, and Kapilvastu with a guide who can explain the religious and historical context at each stop.

Food Near Durbar Square

The old city around Durbar Square has some of Kathmandu's best street food. Look for:

• Newari khaja set: A platter of beaten rice, buffalo meat, black-eyed beans, pickled radish, and spicy potato. The complete Newari snack experience.
• Chatamari: Sometimes called "Newari pizza." A rice-flour crepe topped with minced meat, eggs, and vegetables. Best found in the small lanes between Durbar Square and Asan.
• Yomari: Sweet rice-flour dumplings filled with molasses or coconut. Seasonal (mainly December) but sometimes available year-round at dedicated shops.
• Lassi and chai: Available at small stalls throughout the square. Sit on the steps and people-watch.

For a sit-down meal, several restaurants on Freak Street (Jhochen Tole), just south of the square, serve Newari food in traditional settings. Freak Street was once Kathmandu's hippie hub in the 1960s and 1970s. It's quieter now, but the atmosphere remains.

Tips for a Better Visit

• Hire a local guide. Durbar Square's stories are invisible without context. A guide turns a collection of old buildings into living history. Budget NPR 2,000-3,000 for a 2-hour guided walk, or join our Kathmandu Valley Tour.
• Wear comfortable shoes. The stone paving is uneven, and you'll be walking and climbing steps for an hour or more.
• Bring water. There's limited shade, especially during midday in spring and autumn.
• Be patient with vendors. Postcard and souvenir sellers can be persistent. A polite "no, thank you" is enough.
• Don't sit on sacred objects. Temple steps are generally fine, but avoid sitting on statues, linga, or active shrine platforms.
• Carry small bills. For donations, guides, and street food.

Beyond Kathmandu: Where to Go Next

Most visitors to Durbar Square are either starting or ending a trek. If you're heading out, Nepal's trails await: the classic Everest Base Camp Trek, the culturally rich Annapurna Circuit Trek, or the quieter Langtang Valley Trek just north of the valley.

For shorter adventures from Kathmandu, the Ghorepani Poon Hill Trek takes just 4-5 days. The Mardi Himal Trek offers an off-the-beaten-path alternative. And for something completely different, the Nepal Motorbike Tour puts you on a Royal Enfield through mountain roads and medieval towns.

Yoga and meditation travellers might enjoy the Kathmandu Yoga Tour. And for the Mustang region's remote beauty, the Upper Mustang Trek takes you into a landscape and culture that feel entirely separate from the Kathmandu Valley.

Whatever you choose, spend time in Durbar Square first. Understanding where Nepal has been helps you appreciate where its trails take you.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Kathmandu Durbar Square worth visiting after the earthquake?

Yes. The surviving temples are stunning, the reconstruction work is fascinating to watch, and the atmosphere , the festivals, the Kumari, the street life , hasn't changed. The earthquake removed some structures, but it didn't remove the soul of the place.

How long should I spend at Durbar Square?

At least 90 minutes for a proper visit. Two to three hours with a guide, museum visit, and lunch nearby. If you're visiting during a festival like Dashain or Indra Jatra, you could spend an entire day.

Can I see the Living Goddess (Kumari)?

You can enter the Kumari Ghar courtyard and wait. The Kumari appears at her window at unpredictable times, usually for 30-60 seconds. There's no guarantee, but patience is often rewarded. Photography of the Kumari is strictly forbidden.

What's the difference between Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur Durbar Squares?

All three are Malla-era palace squares with temples and courtyards. Kathmandu's is the largest and most central. Patan's is known for its exceptional metalwork and stone carvings. Bhaktapur's is the best-preserved and least affected by modern development. If you have time, visit all three.

Is Durbar Square safe?

Very safe for tourists. It's a busy public space with constant foot traffic. The main annoyances are persistent souvenir sellers and the occasional scam involving "student art exhibitions." Politely decline and move on.

Visit Durbar Square With a Local Guide

Durbar Square rewards knowledge. A good guide transforms a walk past old buildings into a journey through 2,000 years of Nepali history. We include guided Durbar Square visits in our Kathmandu itineraries, and I'm always happy to recommend the best times and routes.

WhatsApp: +977 9810351300
Email: info@theeverestholiday.com

Written by Shreejan Simkhada, third-generation Himalayan guide and founder of The Everest Holiday. TAAN Licence #1586. Born in Nepal, raised on the trails.